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IAMDOOM
04:0009:0014:00TURNAROUND — REGARDLESS OF POSITIONALTITUDE vs TIME OF DAYSUMMITFIG. 30TURNAROUND DISCIPLINE

Scenario

Everest

Above eight thousand metres you are dying either way.

The mountain does not need weather to kill you; it only needs you to be slow. In the death zone the body is consuming itself, judgement fails before strength does, and the turnaround time is the only thing standing between you and the summit ridge at dusk.

What kills you

Altitude, and the decision you make at two o'clock.

Rules

  1. 01Turnaround time is not negotiable. Ever.
  2. 02Descend at the first sign of confusion.
  3. 03Everything takes three times longer than it should.
  4. 04Nobody is coming up to get you.

The kit

5 items

Judgement is the first thing altitude takes. A number is not affected.

Medical

Pulse Oximeter

The same clip reader, useful at altitude where blood oxygen falls predictably with height.

Fingers are what people come home without.

Shelter

Insulated Summit Mitts

Mittens beat gloves in real cold because fingers share warmth. Dexterity is the price.

Snow blindness is a matter of hours and it ends the descent.

Medical

Glacier Glasses

Very dark lenses with side shields, for snow and high altitude where reflected light is intense.

The summit day starts and very often ends in the dark.

Light & comms

Headlamp High Output

Higher lumens for genuine distance work. Runtime falls sharply at full output.

The symptoms are known, published, and routinely ignored by people who did not read them.

Reading

Altitude Sickness Guide

Recognition and response for altitude illness, where the correct action is usually descent.

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